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Chappy's
624 East Beach, Long Beach, MS (228 )864-9452
It has been my experience that restaurants that are owned by someone other than the chef tend to be of a less consistent quality than chef owned restaurants. With this in mind the ebb and flow of quality at Chappy's over the past 16 years has always puzzled me. Here is what I perceive as the model for a consistent restaurant. A chef owned facility that has not jumped from location to location. Over the first few years Chappy's showed promise. It was an ambitious menu for the Coast and I thought given time it would really turn into something special. In my opinion it never lived up to expectations. Over the years I did have several very good meals but they were usually followed by very ordinary ones within a relatively short period of time. The kind of inconsistency you would expect from a place with a revolving door on the kitchen and a new chef every few months. Over the past 3 months I have been at Chappy's twice with very positive experiences. I returned this week looking for the usual let down. What I got instead was an extremely pleasant lunch. Perhaps things are finally coming together and Chappy's will now grow into the fine dining establishment it has always had the potential to be. I have often criticized chef/owner John "Chappy" Chapman for devoting too much of his attention to attaining celebrity status and hawking his Creole seasoning line instead of perfecting the production of his kitchen. I asked if perhaps there was a new chef working more with the restaurant to allow Chappy to pursue other activities. This was roundly denied. I was told that Chappy was still very "hands on" in the kitchen on a daily basis. My lunch this week consisted of a very nice appetizer assortment of 3 soups. Seafood Gumbo, Shrimp Sherone (a bisque), and a Roasted Duck and Asparagus. The latter of which I think is destined to find a permanent place on the menu. I followed the soup with a piece of blackened grouper that was a bit too small to be blackened to its best advantage, but was flavorful nonetheless. The assortment of designer butters served with the fresh baked bread was quite good. The highlight here being the smoked alligator butter. I found the service, although lacking a busboy, to be prompt and attentive. Without a doubt the best meal I have experienced at Chappy's in many years. I sincerely hope that this marks the beginning of a long run of good results and not merely another peak in performance destined to be followed by another valley as in the past. Right now I give Chappy and his restaurant a very positive report and will be hoping that this time it will continue. I will be watching.
Menu Recommendation:
The Smoked Alligator Butter - Rich and flavorful
The Roasted Duck and Asparagus Soup - A delightful surprise
Soft Shell Crabs with Lemon Butter and Almondine Sauce - Nice version with excellent crabs
Veal Broussard - Baby veal braised and served with a cherry Brandi demi-glace'
Menu Warnings:
Blackened Fish - Flavorful but make sure the fillets are at least 8 oz. Any smaller and they over cook.
Chappy's Sauteed Shrimp - Pushed as a house specialty, this is little more than pan broiled shrimp with too much of Chappy's Creole seasoning dumped in as it is sauteed.
Steaks - Totally uninspired.
Last Updated: 5/11/02
Chappy's
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