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Mary Mahoney's Old French House
116 Rue Magnolia , Biloxi, MS (228) 374-0163
Mary Mahoney may have passed on and left this world and the dining community of Biloxi but her son Bobby Mahoney still works very hard to maintain the status of one of the landmark restaurant of the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Mahoney's, as it is known affectionately by the locals, was established and grew to prominence during the wide open "anything goes" days of Biloxi's fabled past. Evolving from a lounge in the old Tivoli Hotel "Ms Mary", at the urging of friends and lounge customers, opened The Old French House and it was quickly counted among an elite group of perhaps 5 top shelf restaurants on the MS Coast. It is through that reputation that Bobby Mahoney has maintained the atmosphere of his restaurant. Although he is quick to tell you that it is really the jokes he tells every customer. Debates rage as to which are older, Bobby's jokes or the magnificent oak trees surrounding the restaurant. To say that Mahoney's is surviving merely on it's past reputation would be unfair. However, it is impossible not to notice the impact that the influx of high end restaurants, along with the casino industry, has had on this once grand establishment. Mahoney's does have its fair share of regulars. This regular crowd is made up predominately of the more well to do local "old " Biloxi families. An established crowd of geriatric customers has caused quite a bit of lethargy on the part of the chefs to become innovative with the menu. This is a shame because with the more diverse groups visiting the area these days a facility like Mahoney's could take off and blossom under the direction of an innovative chef. One area in which Mahoney's still stands head and shoulders above the competition is the ability of the staff to orchestrate wonderful parties and business type dinners. The staff is very adept at serving a large group without being intrusive and the mechanics utilized by the kitchen have always managed to serve very large numbers of people simultaneously. All in all, Mahoney's offers visitors and locals an opportunity to experience a bit of Biloxi's past. Although all would be well served if the culinary aspects of this visit could be more up to date. Mary Mahoney's Old French House, although a fond memory to many and a noteworthy landmark, has succumb to mediocrity and a lack of imagination.
Menu Recommendations:
Shrimp and Lump Crabmeat St. Patrick - Shrimp and crabmeat served over braised spinich with a brown sauce that is very heavily seasoned with garlic.
Sisters Of the Sea - Two small casseroles, one shrimp au gratin the other crabmeat.
Ask for the House vinaigrette Salad Dressing (don't let them push the ranch off on you)--- This is a delightfully fresh tomato based vinaigrette with chopped Greek olives that is very good.
Seafood Gumbo - Although not a true New Orleans Style gumbo, Mahoney's version is good for the Gulf Coast. I find they tend to chop larger shrimp instead of using smaller ones which I prefer in gumbo and although they claim they are present, I have yet to detect an oyster.
Menu Warnings:
Any of the stuffed fish filet dishes - I have found these dishes (especially at lunch to be filleted very poorly often times cut into unrecognizable portions and many times with excessive bones and even scales remaining.
Crawfish Etoufee - They have an annoying habit of putting an unpleasant combination of an overly dark (borderline burned) version of crawfish etoufee served over angel pasta as a side dish with each of the fish entrees. To paraphrase a Monty Python routine, " This is not a dish for eating. This is a dish for laying down and avoiding. "
Accept VISA, MC, Discover, and AE
Reservations Recommended
Mon-Sat 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM
Closed Sunday
Le Cafe' is open 7 days/24 hours
Last Updated: 5/11/02
Mary Mahoney's
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