Great Weekend Destinations from Tokyo

Lady of the Lake

Note: This review appeared in the January 2005 issue of InTouch, the monthly magazine of the Tokyo American Club. It was written by Christine Miki, author of Tokyo Stories, a humorous novel on expatriate life in Japan.

Lake Yamanaka is my little slice of paradise in Yamanashi Prefecture and an easy 90-minute drive from Tokyo. The lake has no particular tourist spots to boast of but it has an overall prettiness and user-friendliness that makes it a pleasant and hassle-free weekend destination. It’s the largest of the famous Five Lakes around Mount Fuji and at 980 meters above sea level is the third highest lake in Japan.

Because of its altitude, it’s a favorite summer holiday retreat for those seeking a quick escape from the searing heat of the lowlands. In the balmy months of July and August, all streets leading to the lake are clogged with vacationers lugging their camping or fishing paraphernalia. Makeshift noodle and hotdog stalls do brisk business by the lakeside and outdoor concerts and fireworks displays keep everyone on a busy R and R schedule. All this makes for lots of local color and fun, but it also means horrendous traffic on the expressway, crowded hot springs and little chance of securing a decent table in the good restaurants without booking weeks in advance.

So, interestingly enough, I—and not a few other Tokyoites with weekend homes in this area—relish winter weekends at the foot of Mount Fuji. Sure, it’s much colder than Tokyo (temperatures are about 10 degrees lower on average and last year it dropped to minus 18 degrees Celsius one February evening) but a winter trip also means crisp, quiet surroundings, empty roads, kitschy tourist shops and restaurants boarded up for the season. There’s also a much better chance of seeing Japan’s most famous natural symbol spectacularly covered in a layer of snow that glows like icing on a cake.

My husband and I have our Lake Yamanaka winter weekend routine all mapped out. Driving leisurely out of Tokyo mid-morning on a Saturday, we can usually make it to Lake Yamanaka in time for lunch at our favorite tofu restaurant. For most of the year, the lakeside Yutoufu Denei is fully booked with local tourists wishing to sample its full-course tofu menus. In the winter, however, the restaurant is blissfully empty and its healthy and delicious fare is a great antidote to the chilly temperatures.

Lake Yamanaka also has enough charming museums to suit any interest. The Mishima Yukio Literary Museum is a small but well-maintained institution housing manuscripts and about 700 personal memorabilia of the famous author (no English text available). The Iwashita Tetsuya Atelier is the painting studio and gallery of a mentally challenged young artist who churns out stimulating paintings with infectious energy. A visit to Iwashita Tetsuya’s sun-filled atelier makes for a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon and, with some luck, you may even catch the artist himself in action. Those with young children may wish to visit the Yamanakako Teddy Bear Museum, which exhibits vintage and contemporary stuffed bears. The Angel Museum displays photographs and illustrations of angels.

But any winter weekend in Yamanakako just wouldn’t be complete without an early morning outdoor bathe at Benifuji no Yu, the local public hot spring facilities, and a visit to the Sengen Shrine in nearby Fuji Yoshida City. Die-hard spagoers are at the hot springs by 6 a.m. for a dip (with Mount Fuji in the backdrop) and a beer afterwards (yes, at 6 a.m.!). Meanwhile, the 17th century Sengen Shrine, which is also known as the Kitaguchi Hongu Sengen Jinja, is dedicated to Princess Konohanasakuya, the Shinto deity of Mount Fuji. Pilgrims used to start their ascent of Mount Fuji from here. Today, it is an impressive site of ancient buildings and giant cedar trees.

Lake Yamanaka is 90 minutes by car from Tokyo via the Chuo Expressway.

Restaurants
Yutoufu Denei
Tel: 0555-62-6262
Open for lunch and dinner daily except Wednesdays. Set courses: Toufu Ryori Mikuni (¥1,575) and Toufu Ryori Oohira (¥2,100).

Museums
Mishima Yukio Literary Museum
Tel: 0555-20-2655
Open everyday except Mondays and January 6 to 13.

Iwashita Tetsuya Atelier
Tel: 0555-63-2181
Open all year round except for New Year holidays.

Teddy Bear Museum
Tel: 0555-20-2800
Open all year round except for New Year holidays. There is a museum shop and a cafe restaurant on the premises.

Angel Museum
Tel: 0555-62-4333
Open only on weekends from January to March 2005. It is open daily the rest of the year.

Benifuji no Yu
Tel: 0555-20-2700
Open all year-round except Tuesdays from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. From December until early March, it opens at 6 a.m. on weekends.

Hotel
Mount Fuji Hotel
Tel: 0555-62-2111

Back to the Tokyo Stories homepage.