Brits Abroad
24th August
Hey all, hows it going? I wonder if anyone checks the site anymore! Apologies for lack of updates, but myself and the boys have been far too occupied to sit down long enough to type. Anyway, they’re off exploiting their Japan Rail Pass now, so I’ll summarise. I’m rather more willing at this point in time to let the pictures speak for themselves, so check the Galleries section. Ben and Aidan will probably want to write a piece on their own impressions of Japan at some stage, so I’ll let the half-baked social analysis pass by for once.
In the last week we’ve managed to pack in an evening at the fireworks in Kita-Yono; a visit to the (excellent) Yoko Ono sponsored John Lennon Museum at Saitama Shintoshin; shrine gazing, peddle boating and an onsen soaking at Nikko; a night on the tiles in Roppongi; a top-flight J-League football match at the Saitama Stadium, as well as all the other touristy bumf and sightseeing. The most understated aspects of this holiday have of course been the levels of intoxication and premature onset of gout, owing to our singularly selfish pursuit of luxury.
Best Cultural Experience:
Perhaps a visit to a Beatles shrine in Japan doesn’t make much sense for most people. After a late night at the fireworks, we travelled 4 stops to the Saitama SuperArena. This was a big day for Pride (a hybrid martial art king of thingy) fans, who were swarming like yellow-backed hornets around a couple of prize fighters. I believe we ascertained the name of the black guy, one “Quinton ‘Rampage’ Johnson” who isn’t a small guy I’m sure, but was absolutely dwarfed by a 7-foot plus genetic mutation from Brazil, Mr “King Silver”. Looking a bit like Andre the Giant, I’m sure he must have some kind of growth hormone problem that’s gonna kill him in a few years.
Moving on…the John Lennon Museum is officially the only Beatles gig in the world given Yoko Ono’s seal of approval. It is a little sycophantic in this sense, and there’s no mention of John’s first family with Cynthia (“Shinshia” if you’re Japanese). Otherwise, it largely steers clear of controversy. It’s got some great original memorabilia including the Sgt Peppers outfits, the white piano from the Imagine video, and many of John’s personal effects from childhood right up until the day he died. Don’t let me forget to mention the phone in the Yoko Ono modern art section, which supposedly she calls from time to time. Yes it does have a ringtone. No, you can’t make outbound calls to mobiles. The interior décor is superb, information is kept to a minimum, and they’ve upped the tally on the multimedia to stop everyone getting bored. Altogether, a very worthwhile afternoon and welcome intermission from debauchery.
Best Back to Nature daytrip:
Wednesday at Nikko was another excellent day. It was my second trip there, so I wanted to keep the spectacular shrines to the original shogun to a minimum (and I believe that my templed out friends were in enthusiastic agreement on this point). It was a good 5 degrees cooler in Tochigi that day (Saitama was a scorching and humid 37C); we decided to make it even colder with a bus ride into the mountains to the Chuzenji-ko hill-top lake. After gallivanting around the lake on a plastic duck for 30 mins, we headed over to catch the 97m high Kegon Waterwall, very pretty indeed. Thoroughly satisfied, all that was needed (naturally) was an onsen to set the day off. We were in a town called “Chuzenji Onsen” of course…it even had the onsen symbol in the Lonely Planet. Nevertheless, after a short while questioning locals, it became clear that Chuzenji Onsen was so named in a crude attempt to garner more tourism…we’d like to extend our disappreciation to all those thinking of buying the Lonely Planet – a bumper volume of lies and half-truths written by people who’ve clearly never visited the places!
We did get our onsen though. Half way back to Nikko we found the Yashio-no-yu spa. Apparently, walking around in their underwear and sneaking a peak at their host leaving the shower hadn’t sated the homoerotic tendencies of these Brits abroad, who were determined to get down and dirty in the buff with the local talent. It would seem the rumours are true…Japanese men are huge in the trouser department. The onsen was surprisingly relaxing, not as hot as I’d feared, and the only person breaking the etiquette was myself, when I tried to go swimming in the deep end. The creepiest aspect was not being naked with strangers, but the aging cleaning lady who couldn’t get enough of perving in the changing room. We wondered if, just for equal opportunities sake, they had an old man employed to perve on the ladies…
Best Evening:
Whilst staring at the waitresses in the Arabian Rock came close, Thursday was probably the best night. We began in Ebisu (home of Yebisu beer) where we ate in a Mexican with my penpal Tomoko. It’s the first time I’ve ever met Tomoko, who worked in a Primary in Ballyholme, Bangor for 5 months! She’s recently married her American boyfriend Zach, and had been in Tokyo (all the way from Osaka) to get her Visa, so it was a bit of a celebration. They hope to move to America and open up a B&B, to cater for Japanese students who want a homestay experience. The other notable occurrence within the restaurant was the bevy of young, tall, Korean beauties being wined and dined by ugly old short Japanese men, who felt compelled to bring and introduce their prize to us. Disgusting nasty old men, proving once again that money talks.
The rest of the evening was spent in Gas Panic, Roppongi. To be truthful, it probably wasn’t a much better venue than some of the clubs in Oxford. Best memory was probably starting a huge cyclone in the middle of the dance floor, all the young Japanese eager to join in to such an extent the cyclone was soon spreading and out of control. I also seem to remember a friendly trainee sumo who giggled like a schoolgirl when I slapped his belly. Still, woke up with a huge grip-shaped bruise on my arm, so I’m guessing he got his revenge…
Worst feeling:
Finally getting into Shiraoka at 7.30 am, groggy, having narrowly avoided missing our train on several occasions, only to be greeted by chirpy students of mine heading in the opposite direction for some wholesome sporting event or some such. Blech….
Best Sporting event:
I’ve been in Japan for a year, and haven’t been to a footie game. Moreover, I haven’t been to a stadium since my body mimicked appendicitis and hospitalised me for the Man U game at the tender age of 16. It all began when we met my mate Yusuke for food and beers at a lovely little (previously undiscovered) izakaya in Shiraoka that could’ve come straight from the set of Kill Bill Vol 1. Yusuke and his friend, both studying to be English teachers at Uni, revealed the secret of getting a ticket for a J-League match…hop down to your local convenience store (the same place that sells food 24/7; has a bank machine and photocopier; where you pay all your utilities) and stick a tenner in the machine. Out pops a ticket. Incredible technology, these Japs.
The Urawa Reds are one of the big 3 teams in Japan. They’ve at least (I think) 4 players on the national squad, and more that have graduated and moved abroad. Yusuke is a big fan, and regularly camps outside the ground for 9 hours before kick-off (lending more credence to Ben’s “fanatical race” theory). In the event, we arrived at the grounds 6 hours before kick-off, and were still beaten by a considerable number! The grounds are fantastic, purpose built for the last World Cup, the scene of Brazil’s quarter final victory over England. It can seat 60,000, has beautiful grass and huge TV screens for action replays on either side.
Kick-off came and went. The fans were incredible. All chanting in unison…knowing exactly when to begin and end. There appeared to be ringleaders in every stand with a megaphone barking out instructions to the masses. It may have been a little manufactured, but the atmosphere was electric. Urawa got the better of Tokyo Verdi by 7-2, sending them straight to the top of the table. With every goal, the row in front, ecstatic to be in possession of the only white boys in the stadium, turned round for a huge group hug. We almost tried to get our own chant started (a big “dodgy keeper” when the opposition goalie tried to kick the ball), but in truth it may have been phonetically difficult. Great day, and according the Yusuke, the highest scoring match he’s been to in 7 years of Urawa fandom!
This is however, perhaps the slightly slower paced and boring half of the boys’ holiday, as they duck and dive around Tokyo, learning how to survive (and I must say I’ve been impressed by their quick adaptation to the transport system), before being set lose on Western Japan with their unlimited Shinkansen Pass. I on the other hand, am slightly worried by the reaction of my body to this jolt from the norm! Still, its been a great week. Check out the new galleries.
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