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Beth's Sugar Glider Pouches & More
Beth's Sugar Glider Pouches, Ferret Pouches and Hammock's, as well as "Happy Huts" for Birds.
We offer these made in Polar Fleece, as well as Cotton Blends, we have Cage Pouches and Bonding Pouches. You have a choice in your bonding pouches of either a zipper top and screen or an open top.
Made to order in large quantities or singles. Satisfaction Guaranteed.
To see all pouches Click on Gallery
Cage Pouches: $5.99
Open top Bonding Pouches: $10.99
Zipper Top with Screen: $12.99
Add A Matching Strap Comfort Cushion For Your Pouch For $2.50
Happy Hut: $11.99
Ferret Pouch: $14.99
Ferret Hammock: $16.99
Cage Skirt made to order
Shipping and Handling price per order will apply.
If you need a large quantity of merchandise then we will give them to you at a discount price.
Buy Pouches Wholesale
Now you too can buy sugar glider pouches at wholesale prices from Beth's Sugar Glider Pouches & More when you order at least 20. As usual, everyone saves on shipping by having multiple items packaged together! And we'll shave an additional 15% off your subtotal (before S&H) when you purchase 20 or more of any particular pouch in our online store. For example, if you purchase 20 Open Top Bonding pouches, you'll save $32.97! (20 x $10.99 = $219.80 - 15% = $186.83) To take advantage of this great deal, just email us for a price quote. Let us know what pouches you would like to purchase in bulk, and your address; and then we will respond with an email providing you with a total (including S&H). Remember, these wholesale orders have a 20-count minimum. Subject to color availability. Other restrictions may apply. Please allow three weeks for delivery. Larger orders may be shipped via UPS ground delivery.
Order online or by Phone or Fax.
Payments accecpted by Money Order, Cashiers Check, Paypal.
Beth's Sugar Glider Pouches
804-598-1492 Phone or Fax Orders
804-916-9863
4171 Old Buckingham Rd.
Powhatan, VA 23139
gliderpouchesandmore@verizon.net
Personality Plus Attitude
Sugar gliders offer plenty of both.
Sugar gliders are tiny gliding opossums from Indonesia, New Guinea, New Zealand and Australia. Wild sugar gliders live in colonies of 6 to 15 animals in tree hollows or other nests made of vegetation. They spend daylight hours cuddling in their nest. Early evening and night will find them foraging for food and protecting their tree.
An adult sugar glider is about the size of a hamster or flying squirrel, approximately 5 to 7 inches long from tip of nose to base of tail. Adults in proper body condition weigh between 3 and 4 ounces. The tail is fluffy, often curls on the end and usually is longer than the body length.
A young sugar glider is silver-gray with a black stripe that starts just above the nose leather and extends over the forehead, down the neck and back and joins the black tail. A dark stripe also runs from the outside corner of the eye to the ear. Captive-raised sugar gliders remain this color throughout their lives. Wild sugar gliders are born this color but usually become stained cocoa brown from the vegetation and tree sap in their nests. Their new coats will come in silver-gray after shedding the old coat.
The sugar glider's belly is a soft white, meeting the gray exactly at the outside edge of the fully furred gliding membranes. This gives a unique scalloped effect when they are relaxed. The sugar glider has four fingers and an opposable thumb on its hands and feet. The thumbs on the rear feet are without claws. Toes and fingers have small pads that help the animal grasp food and branches. Each toe and finger ends in a sharp claw that can hook like Velcro to nonslick surfaces.
Diet and Feeding
Sugar gliders are omnivores. They are fond of many different types of food. Gliders need food high in energy and protein. Nearly all fruits and vegetables are relished.
Some of the foods gliders enjoy include apples, apricots, bananas, berries, bread, cantaloupe, carrots, cherries, corn, dates, dried fruit, eggs, grapes, honey, honeydew, insects, Romaine or leaf lettuce, meal worms, peaches (but not the pits), boiled chicken, melons, unsalted raw nuts, oranges, peanut butter, pears, pineapple, plums, pure fruit juices, raisins, strawberries, sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes, and yogurt.
A nutritionally well balanced pellet glider food is recommended as a basis for the glider's diet. Sugar gliders have specific requirements for vitamins D and E and minerals calcium and selenium. Improper diets can cause paralysis, muscle disease, eye problems, and even death.
Too much citrus can cause diarrhea for the glider. Gliders love insects like grasshoppers and June bugs. Watch your fingers when you feed live bugs to Sugar gliders! In their excitement to get the bug they also get fingers!
Sugar Gliders "R" Us carries a full line of glider food and treats. Some of the treats are corn wheels, mango, dried cherries, wax worms, dried blueberries, peanut meal, freeze dried crickets, beet pellets, banana chips, carob drops, papaya, veggie chips, yogurt drops dried apricot, and dried carrots. For a complete description and prices of our glider food and treats, please click HERE.
A good way to feed a Sugar glider is to attach plastic hanging food dishes on the inside of their cage. You may want a couple of dishes for different foods and treats.
A plastic water bottle with fresh water should also be attached to the cage. Water is very critical for gliders and they will die if they go more than a day without water.
The key thing to remember when feeding your Sugar glider is that they like variety. Not all gliders will eat the same food. You will have to learn your glider's favorites. Just remember that the one constant food is a well balanced dry food. Too many nuts will constipate. Always remember that almonds, cherry and peach pits, and black walnuts contain trace amounts of cyanide and should not be fed.
A Sugar glider's diet in captivity consists primarily of fresh fruits and vegetables as well as various sources of protein. Overall, the diet should contain about 24%protein. Fruits and vegetables should be fed fresh every evening. All fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly rinsed to remove pesticides. Meat and poultry should be lean, cooked (but not fried), and cut into small pieces. Do not feed leftover meats that have salt, sauces, or spices added to them. Chicken should be fed skinless and boneless. Dairy product such as cottage cheese and naturally cultured yogurt are good nutritious sources of protein.
The only thing a Sugar glider likes more than a nut is two nuts! Nuts are a good source of protein , but they are also high in fat and phosphorus. Nuts and sunflower seeds should be strictly rationed! All nuts should be raw, not roasted and should be unsalted. Gliders particularly like peanuts, sunflower seed, pecans, and unsweetened coconut.
In general, a sugar glider eats about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of mixed fruits and vegetables and one tablespoon of protein based product(s) per night. If you notice that your glider cleans up all the food, then increase the amount slightly. If you notice that your glider is becoming obese, cut back some. It is important that your glider consumes a well-rounded diet. It is also important that the diet contains at least twice as much calcium as it does phosphorous.
Bonding Tips
Tip #1: Permit your sugar glider to become acclamated to its new cage and home before you begin disturbing it for playtime outside of the cage.
Tip #2: Successful bonding takes time and patience. Don't think in measurements of "days and weeks," instead, think in measurements of "weeks and months," perhaps even longer if your sugar glider has a history of abuse.
Tip #3: House your sugar glider in a room that feels safe to him or her during the transition period as you introduce yourself to your new pet. The goal is to establish your pet's trust and feeling of security, so choose a location that is safe from electrical noises and heavy traffic, in order to avoid unnecessary alarm and disturbance.
Tip #4: Remember that each sugar glider has a unique personality with distinct playtime likes and dislikes, and as such, may require a unique approach to bonding. So if you find that one approach isn't working, try something new! Don't accept a cookie-cutter approach to bonding. Be flexible and experiment with new ideas!
Tip #5: Place your sugar glider in your shirt pocket (or bonding pouch) during his or her daytime napping period to permit your pet to get used to your scent and sounds. At nighttime, he or she will want to be active and will not want to be confined to your pocket or bonding pouch.
Tip #6: Use your sugar glider's relatively less active daytime period as an opportunity for you to touch and pet your groggy nocturnal animal. This helps him or her become accustomed to your touch and feel, as well as your scent.
Tip #7: Although sugar gliders will always be nocturnal, they may be disturbed for brief periods of time during the day for human contact. (Expect some crabbing at first though!) Daytime can be the ideal time to interact with your sugar glider while he/she is a bit dazed and slower to move. However, remember to keep your sugar glider protected from bright lights.
Tip #8: You can train your sugar glider to automatically wake up earlier in the evening by consistently arousing him or her at that time each day.
Tip #9: Don't grab at your sugar glider to pick it up. Instead, offer it your cupped hand or back hand (palm down) to permit your pet to approach you in confidence.
Tip #10: Use treats as a positive reinforcer to entice your sugar glider to come at the sound of your voice. Of course, be sure that you are making a good dietary choice and not ultimately creating a bigger feeding problem for your sugar glider.
Tip #11: Never use a negative reinforcer with your sugar glider under any circumstances. Punishment (like hitting, thumping, and squirting with water) is both abusive and unnecessary, and can consequently damage your bonding relationship.
Tip #12: Wear two shirts, placing the young joey between them on your chest or belly, to permit the baby sugar glider to become accustomed to your scent and sounds. In addition, he/she will likely feel very secure snuggled between the two layers of fabric against your warm body.
Tip #13: Place an unwashed clothing item you have recently worn (like a t-shirt) on top of the cage to help your sugar glider become accustomed to your scent. Keep in mind, some sugar gliders are cloth-shredders, so you'll want to closely watch your pet's behavior.
Tip #14: Bonding is a product of conditioned response. So, be consistent! In an effort to teach your sugar glider how to properly respond to your voice and presence, use identical steps or techniques over a long period of time, in order to train your pet. Practice, practice, practice.
Tip #15: Talk to your sugar glider constantly, to permit him or her to become familiar with your voice. Modulate your voice when making contact with your sugar glider. Use a soft, soothing tone.
Tip #16: Approach bonding as a series of increasing time increments. Begin the bonding experience with only a short 10-15 minute training session, once or twice per day. Gradually increase the length of contact over time, to ultimately enable your pet to tolerate several hours of direct contact with you.
Tip #17: When strangers visit, remember that their unfamiliar sounds and scents are likely to startle your sugar glider. Never let a stranger invade your sugar glider's cage.
Tip #18: Always remain present, acting as your sugar glider's "safety net," when unfamiliar (or infrequent) visitors are making contact with your sugar glider. Even a knowledgeable veterinarian can cause undue stress to your sugar glider.
Tip #19: Dip your finger in honey or applesauce to entice your sugar glider to lick your finger. He or she will consequently associate your fingers with pleasant sensations and positive rewards.
Tip #20: If your sugar glider crabs or nips (bites) at you, don't pull back. Don't withdraw and don't lunge at the animal either -- both have longlasting ill-effects on the bonding relationship. Instead, take a deep breath, grit your teeth, pause for a moment to permit your sugar glider to calm down, and then continue your bonding activity.
Tip #21: An independent sugar glider is not likely to return to its cage until he or she feels like it. To avoid traumatization, don't start chasing or grabbing at the animal in order to return the sugar glider to its cage. Instead, remove the cage pouch from the cage, and use it as a safe and scented environment to coax the sugar glider to enter the pouch so that you can place the animal (once he/she is inside the pouch) back into the cage.
Tip #22: If your sugar glider is prone to ignore you and run away when you approach it to return it to the cage, use treats to entice it to come to you. Moreover, avoid giving the sugar glider treats during playtime, so that you may use treats to coax the sugar glider to its cage when playtime is over.
Tip #23: Use a "bonding blanket" (a small square piece of soft fabric) to make your sugar glider become familiar with your scent. Simply wear the bonding blanket next to your skin for at least a 24 hour period, then place the blanket in the sugar glider's nesting pouch. Replace the blanket with a newly scented one every couple of days.
Tip #24: Use playtime as an added opportunity to reinforce the bonding relationship by using interactive toys and games. Be very alert and aware of what your sugar glider is doing at all times while it is out of the cage. And utilize his or her natural instincts and curiosity as a way to become part of his/her world.
Tip #25: Be cautious of permitting young children to play with your sugar glider. Kids may make sudden moves, loud squeals, and even tight squeezes that can startle or injure the sugar glider. Establishing a sense of security is key to successful bonding.
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