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Alba Iulia
Alba Iulia is where the unification of Romania was declared twice, in 1599 and again in 1918. This historic city is worth a stop to see its 18th-century citadel, several churches and cathedrals, palaces and museums. One highlight is the Batthyaneum Library, which contains an extensive display of medieval books and art. You could easily spend a few hours there. 165 mi/265 northwest of Bucharest.
Baia Mare
Near the Ukrainian and Hungarian borders, Baia Mare is a bit off the beaten track, but if time permits, plan two days to see it and the surrounding area. Baia Mare is the center of the mountainous Maramures region, which is noted for its fascinating folklore and small villages, where the residents still live rural and essentially medieval lives, working chiefly as farmers, weavers and woodcutters. They also dress in traditional costumes to attend Sunday church.
The city is a mix of very old and very new: It has more than its share of concrete apartment blocks and smoke-belching chimneys, but it's also home to the 14th-century Stephen's Tower (notice the clock), an 18th-century monastery, chestnut orchards and the ruins of the old city walls (only the Butcher's Tower still stands).
Be sure to drive 45 mi/75 km north to Sapinta to see the local cemetery - it's one of the most fascinating displays of folk art in all of Europe. The wooden grave markers are carved and painted showing the deceased doing what they did in life: a shepherd tending sheep, for example. If the person died a violent death, that too is portrayed. Beneath the portraits are humorous poems (the graveyard is known as the "merry cemetery"). Also plan to visit some of the area's famous wooden churches. You'll find fine examples in Birsana, Desesti, Ieud and Rogoz. Baia Mare is 250 mi/400 km northwest of Bucharest.
Bistrita
Bistrita is a large town on the southwestern end of Borgo Pass, the highest road in Romania. The surrounding forested valley is gorgeous, so if you're in the area, plan to stop for an hour or so to see the 13th-century cathedral and the town's medieval merchant houses. Northwest of Bistrita, in Cosbuc, is the George Cosbuc Museum, which honors the Romanian poet/author born there. 200 mi/320 km northwest of Bucharest.
Brasov
This beautiful 800-year-old city at the foot of the Transylvanian Alps demands at least two nights. The main attraction is the 14th-century Black Church (which became "black" with soot and ash during a 1689 fire). It's the oldest and largest Gothic church in the country, with a 4,000-pipe organ, an extensive collection of oriental rugs and interesting pews and sepulchers. Nearby are two fascinating Orthodox churches, Sfinta Trieme and the Church of St. Nicholas.
The Schei District (the old Romanian section of town, the rest having been inhabited by German Saxons) and the main plaza have countless intriguing old buildings - be sure to look for the old Council Hall on the plaza which now houses a history museum. Other attractions include the White and Black Towers (parts of the old city wall), 16th-century Ecaterina's Gate and an art museum. If it's not too hazy (the pollution can be very bad), take the cable car to the top of Timpa Mountain (2,850 ft/869 m).
Nearby Bran makes a good day trip. This Transylvanian village is known for its 14th-century castle perched atop a 200-ft/60-m peak. The castle has beautiful landscaping outside, displays of feudal art, arms, statuary, furniture and hunting trophies inside. Brasov is 85 mi/140 km north of Bucharest.
Bucharest
This 500-year old capital is a study in fractured history and decaying elegance. Once touted as the Paris of eastern Europe, visitors strain to understand why. The city's lingering charms are overshadowed by packs of stray dogs roaming the avenues and the street children panhandling everywhere. Traffic clogs Bucharest's streets, and the potholes seem as big as canyons. In the past few years, the city has gotten cleaner but still has a long way to go before it joins the ranks of a lively European capital.
Among the attractions is the unfinished Palace of Parliament, an absurdly large white marble structure built at the behest of Nicolae Ceausescu to be his government's headquarters. The palace is truly a monument to excess: Said to cost US$1 billion and to have been designed by more than 700 architects, it was built during a time when citizens were going without proper food or heat. Bathrooms shine with gold-plated plumbing fixtures, and more than 100 chandeliers grace the huge marble rooms (most Romanians were restricted to one 40-watt bulb). On the up side, however, the palace can be considered a tribute to Romanian materials and craftsmanship - almost every fixture, carpet, curtain and piece of furniture is locally made. Guided tours in English are offered daily.
After visiting the palace, take the subway to Eroi Revolutiei Metro station to visit Heroes Cemetery, a somber counterbalance to Ceausescu's decadent opulence. The graves of the martyrs who died trying to overthrow Ceausescu are usually topped with flowers. Other sights in the city include the Romanian Atheneum, the Museum of the History of Romania (replicas of friezes from Trajan's Column in Rome and treasures from the former royal collection), the Folk Art Museum and Mogosoaia Palace. Of special interest to architecture buffs is the Village Museum, which showcases the history of Romanian architecture from the past three centuries. The historic dwellings are filled with period clothing and furnishings. (It's a good introduction to the diverse regions of the country.)
There are several nice churches that can be visited, among them the Church of St. George, the Russian Church (complete with onion domes) and Stavropleos (which has significant Ottoman detailing). And if the gray atmosphere of the city gets you down, visit the Cismigiu Gardens (right downtown) or the large parks with lakes and wooded groves outside the city center. Bucharest's subway system makes it easy to get around. 85 mi/135 km south of Brasov.
Cluj-Napoca
This Transylvanian city, bisected by the Somes River, reflects a strong Hungarian influence (the region was once part of Hungary). Start your tour of the town's attractions with the 14th-century St. Michael's Church and its statue of the great Hungarian King Matthias. The city has a few good museums to check out: the National Art Museum (in a former palace), the Ethnographical Museum of Transylvania and the History Museum of Transylvania. Other sights include numerous churches, the lovely botanical gardens (the largest in Romania and possibly eastern Europe) and a citadel.
We suggest a two-night stay in Cluj, longer if you're taking any of these half-day trips: to the Ethnographic Museum Outdoors (in nearby Hoia Forest, it features reconstructed homes and churches); to the 15th-century castle in Gilau; to the 13th-century church in Vistea; or to one of the spas in nearby Baita, Cojocna and Someseni. You can also take day walks in the surrounding countryside. 200 mi/320 km northwest of Bucharest.
Constanta
Constanta is the major Romanian port and resort city on the Black Sea. The older part of town is the most interesting, and it's pleasant to walk the winding streets that lead to the water. On the waterfront is a huge art-deco building called the Casino (though no longer a casino, it's still a pleasant bar and restaurant). Just across the street is an aquarium. The other major city sights are the museum of history and archaeology and the 1,700-year-old ruins of a Roman market, with a huge mosaic floor and sacrificial altar. If time permits, look for the statue of the Roman poet Ovid (he was banished to Constanta after his lascivious poetry offended Augustus). There's also an interesting mosque.
The beaches in town are nothing special, but there are several resort areas nearby. South of Constanta is Eforie Nord, which specializes in therapeutic mud and water treatments. Its sister resort, Eforie Sud, is the oldest resort in the area - the current resort was founded in 1892, and there was a Roman spa in the area 2,400 years earlier. The best resorts, however, are still farther south: Neptune, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. If you visit these spots in the summer, be prepared for big crowds. Constanta is 125 mi/200 km east of Bucharest.
Drobeta-Turnu Severin
This port city on the Danube River is dotted with pretty parks and bridges. At the east end of Bulevard Republicii (the first main thoroughfare north of the river), is a museum complex that is well worth visiting. In addition to the museum itself, the complex contains the remnants of a Roman fort, a 14th-century basilica and a bridge that dates from around AD 100.
At the Iron Gates, the name given to the point where the Danube crosses the southern end of the Carpathian Mountains, there's a giant hydroelectric dam you can drive across into Serbia. Even more spectacular is the nearby Cazan Gorge.
Fans of modern art should make a detour northeast to Tirgu Jiu. It was the hometown of Romanian sculptor Constantin Brancusi, and four of his monumental pieces can be seen in parks there. To the northwest is the Herculane Baths, the best-known and fanciest of Romania's spas. Drobeta-Turnu Severin is 215 mi/350 km west of Bucharest.
Iasi
For those on a northern excursion of the country, Iasi, the ancient capital of Moldavia, is definitely worth a visit. And it's also an important stop for those who want to get closer to the Romanian heart and intellect. During the latter half of the 19th century, Iasi (pronounced Yash) was known for its literary life.
The streets of the older part of the city are ideal for walking past one example of grand architecture after another. We're particularly fond of the Coupou Neighborhood, where the university is located. The beautiful main building borders a park where the Soros Foundation has built a Museum of Literature honoring Romanian poet Mihail Eminescu along with children's author Ion Creanga. The park is home to a fabled linden tree where Eminescu, the great Romantic, composed his love poems.
Most of Iasi's best-known landmarks are in the center of town: the beautifully restored 17th-century church, Trei Ierarhi (Three Hierarchies), with its carved-stone facade; the 17th-century Golia Church; the 20th-century Palace of Culture (done in Gothic style, it contains several museums); and County Museum (interesting historical and art displays). The monasteries in town are definitely worth a look - the friendly monks may even give you a personal, guided tour. The splendid Hotel Train, designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), is worth a visit, even if you're not staying there. 200 mi/320 km northeast of Bucharest.
Oradea
On the Hungarian border, this monumental Hapsburg-style city can provide a pleasant break if you're driving between Cluj and Budapest, Hungary. While exploring Oradea, note its arched bridges, parks and citadel. Attractions to visit include the baroque palace (don't miss its historical museum) and the Catholic cathedral. Within a few miles are several health spas - Baile Felix is the best. 265 mi/430 km northwest of Bucharest.
Piatra Neamt
Piatra Neamt is an attractive city in Moldavia. There's not a lot to do, but it affords gorgeous scenery - it's in the shadow of three mountains, near pine forests and lakes. The Neamt Monastery nearby should not be missed (fantastic religious art). Other nearby monasteries include Agapia and Varatec (the well known painted monastery), both of which have rich collections of icons. Plan two nights there. 170 mi/275 km north of Bucharest.
Predeal
This ski resort is beautifully situated in the Carpathian Mountains south of Brasov. The popularity of the place can be confirmed by the fact that the slopes reopened for business just a few days after the revolution. Gorgeous mountain scenery, quality hotels and skiing (through March and sometimes into April) attract skiers from all over Europe. 85 mi/140 km north of Bucharest.
Sibiu
This Transylvania city merits a full day to see its many sights. Among them are the Icon Museum, the massive Evangelical Church (it houses the tomb of Dracula's son), the 18th-century Bruckenthal Palace (it's now a museum with a huge folk-art collection) and the fascinating Museum of Hunting Weapons. Allow some time to walk through the city's square and parks. If you're especially interested in folk art, visit the Museum of Folk Technology in the Dumbrava Sibiului Forest. Nature lovers can easily spend up to four more days in the area, taking excursions to the Olt River region (beautiful wooded scenery) and the Fagaras Mountain region south of town (hiking trails and huts at several altitudes). 70 mi/110 km west of Brasov.
Sighisoara
The town of Sighisoara (pronounced see-GHE-shwa-ra) probably comes closest to what most visitors think an old Transylvanian town should look like. Nicknamed the "Pearl of Transylvania," it was settled in 1280, although archaeologists have found evidence of Roman settlement four milennia ago.
The city is still surrounded by medieval ramparts, and the winding streets are lined with old buildings. There's a very nice old church atop a hill within the old walls, and the central clock tower offers a fine view of the village's ancient red roofs. The interior of the tower is now a museum with a fascinating collection of objects from the Middle Ages (its exhibit of medieval gynecological medical instruments is enough to make a grown woman faint). There is also an exhibit of photographs and banners from local participation in the December 1989 revolution.
The town has a strong link with the often over-hyped Dracula legend: The home where Vlad Dracul, father of Prince Vlad (Dracula), lived is now a combination tavern/medieval arms museum; and Prince Vlad was actually born in Sighisoara. The city, however, has remained surprisingly unspoiled by tacky Dracula commercialism. (Plans to build a Dracula theme park there have been rejected - the park will be built in Bucharest, if at all.) 55 mi/90 km northwest of Brasov.
Sinaia
Set in a valley of the beautiful Sub-Carpathian Mountains, this ski resort has refreshingly cool summers and relatively mild winters. It's also a great jumping off point for hikes in the lower Carpathians. The skiing isn't that great (the mild winters mean there's not much snow), but the atmosphere makes up for it. Even nonskiers will want to plan a day to take the cable car to the top of the highest peak. The view is eerily spectacular, and a cold, misty wind always seems to blow. If you're interested in hiking, you can pick up a map in town, which gives locations of cabanes (communal cabins) for overnight hikers. (The cabanes also serve free coffee and tea for guests.)
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